Day 01 (2019-08-11)

  • daily stats: 25 km, ~800 km by train
  • sleeping: glade near Nyírtét, tent
  • departure from Prague early in the morning, traditional Budapest cuisine for lunch
  • straight (there were almost no turns) train ride to Nyíregyháza in the afternoon
    • the city is well-groomed
  • evening bike ride to the fields east of the initial deployment is hindered by losing our way and eventually a flat tire
  • cumulative plan completion: 50%

Day 02 (2019-08-12)

  • daily stats: 119 km, 6:19, max 39.4 km/h
  • sleeping: motel Zaluzhzhia, 100 UAH/person/night
  • morning ride through forest “road” that hadn’t been used for weeks
    • collecting thick layers of webs and catching red dust on all surfaces
  • no lunch, very hot day
  • crossing the border
    • parked empty cars, smugglers have to walk
    • poor user experience: waiting in queues under direct sunlight, armed forces around
  • late afternoon kvass in a café in Berehovo
  • first encounter with proper Ukranian roads and cowboys
  • I have mineral crisis and cannot continue due to cramps
  • cumulative plan completion: 75%

Webs on the road

Day 03 (2019-08-13)

  • daily stats: 57 km
  • sleeping: meadow between Rososh and Keretsky, tent
  • learning from our hosts that the tap water is not drinkable (after we had drank proper amount the evening before)
  • Mukachevo
    • there were more women than men in the streets around noon
    • lunch in the poshest restaurant in the city
  • afternoon kvass at Shenborniv castle (Шенборнів) with nice surroundings
  • (women) monastery near Svalyava (Кирило-Мефодіївський монастир), renewed road around the monastery
  • riding through villages triggers curiosity among the locals; we obtained water even when house owners did not understand us, their consent was unclear
  • cumulative plan completion: 72%

Paved roads

Day 04 (2019-08-14)

  • daily stats: 83 km
  • sleeping: hotel+disco Kolochava (Колочава), 200 UAH/person/night
  • breakfast in village café Kushnytsia (Кушниця)

Typical village grocery + café

  • again (women) monastery near Lypcha (Липча) (Монастир Різдва Пресвятої Богородиці)
  • lunch in a car repair shop/pizzeria in Lypcha
  • shortcut through roads/paths passable only without rain and with a jeep
  • arriving to Kolochava (Колочава) – the Czech Mecca in the region, of course there was a RJ bus parked nearby
    • rainy afternoon through valley of the Tereblia (Теребля) river
    • not as touristic as expected
    • as Czech as expected (Četnická stanice pub full of Czechs, Czech filmmakers shooting another remake)
    • partying in Kolochava is hard due to no/dim street light
  • cumulative plan completion: 68%

Shortcut for jeeps

Day 05 (2019-08-15)

  • daily stats: 70 km
  • sleeping: hotel Leopoldsdorf, 8.3 EUR/person/night
  • breakfast in mixed goods shop in Kolochava (including coffee)
  • highlight of the trip
    • Kolochava + Nerovets under bald slopes of Carpathians mountains
    • valley of the Tereblia with forests around, paved road and clean air
  • lake Synevyr (Синевир)
    • disappointment – parking lot right at the lake, “street” sellers
  • shortcut to Lopushne (Лопушне) via hiking trail
    • trail in the woods, trail over fallen trunks, passing through thickets, guiding bike downstream
    • all of that with heavy packed bikes
    • we all started singing and speaking loud as we were scared from bears
  • running out of cash, dreaming of ATMs in Vyhoda (Вигода)
  • night climb to two passes (second highest altitude of the trip, 1st was the lake)
  • surprisingly finding several (overpriced) hotels in Leopoldsdorf
  • cumulative plan completion: NA, new plan: return to Czechia

Climbing trees

Day 06 (2019-08-16)

  • daily stats: 38 km, ~65 km by marshrutka, ~140 km by train
  • sleeping: hostel Lviv, 200 UAH/person/night
  • delightful descent from the mountains (good that we did not ride this at night)
  • breakfast from every shop on the Vyhoda main square (saussage, coffee, ice cream)
  • looking forward to a train from Dolina (Долина) to Ivano-Frankivsk
    • the first encounter with Ukrainian public transport
    • no train, no bus (for bikes)
    • in the end we take “marshrutka”, 200 UAH/3 persons + bikes
  • unclear plan, so we made hasty decision to travel to Lviv (Львів) by train
    • quick lunch in hipster burger-ama
    • the second encounter with Ukrainian public transport (we were almost not allowed to board with the bikes)
  • troubles finding a hostel ad-hoc, quick sightseeing while looking for the accommodation
    • streets are very crowded even in the evening, European appearance
    • reconstructions around the main train station
    • multiple major streets and squares
    • opera house, neogothic church
  • cumulative new-plan completion: -20%

Day 07 (2019-08-17)

  • daily stats: 12 km, ~80 km by bootleg marshrutka, ~750 km by train
    • total cycling: 404 km
  • sleeping: EN 407 Chopin, ~1700 CZK/person/night
  • our return plans collapsed as we learnt that LE connection did not accept bicycles
  • morning spent in multiple queues at Lviv main train station in order to learn that no train went that day in our direction (booked)
  • closing a deal on offline Über to get us to the Polish borders for 60 €
    • we attempted to haggle as the price was ~10 times the train ticket, in retrospect, it seems a fair taxi price for the distance
    • the third (and the last) encounter with the Ukrainian transport
  • spending the high noon roasting in the queue on the Polish customs check
  • cycling the last kilometers to get to Przemyśl, felt such a relief being in the EU again
  • dinner in Kraków and night train to Prague
  • cumulative new-plan completion: 100%


  • gipsy children in Berehovo – very curious, fake waitress
  • cowherd – talkative, even without knowing Czech
  • girl in Mukachevo – knew good English
  • security guy – knew a bit of Czech, liked Czechs, helpful
  • Roman – fixing bridges in Prague after floods, Czech-speaking grandfather, does not like Russians, small house with a goat under mountains now
  • anonymous boy – ~13 years old buys cigarettes and rides a motorbike (not that unusual in the village region)
  • Bogdan – yuppie from Chernovitsi, helped us in the train and Lviv, enlightened
  • Poles (2 guys, 1 girl) – returning from a bikepacking trip from Warszava to Istanbul


  • unregulated rivers, wilder forests
    • OTOH, more litter in the nature
  • polluted rivers
  • polluted air – especially the heavy trucks are green only on the coat
  • bears smell
  • open bar must have loud hardbass or 90s rap playing
  • riding the roads is like an arcade game, avoiding the potholes
  • Ukrainian universities participate in the Erasmus program
  • double time-zone (official UTC+2, effective UTC+1)
  • low efficiency
    • shopkeeper (cannot do multitasking)
    • train station (bureaucracy, technical breaks)
    • grocery in Kolochava (pile of assorted goods)
  • data SIM cards are unbelievably cheap
  • decentralized settlements, self-reliant houses/villages
  • great wealth differences (even neighboring houses)
  • Slav squat is real

Unregulated banks of the river Rika


  • kvass – beverage
  • borgas – soup/goulash in Mukachevo
  • lots of dill (regional)
  • pelmeni, vareniky
  • colored honey/marmelade?
  • Polski bigos

Lessons learnt

  • fenders are not worth it (hinder manipulation, bike blocks splashes anyway)
  • packing all above rear wheel is suboptimal (greater moments to carry the bike, overload of rear wheel/axis)
  • too many bags/luggage complicate leaving a bike alone
  • little backpack is useful
  • (the points above apply to lazy cyclists who do lot of for city tourism and frequent public transport travels)
  • maintain not only hydration but electrolyte concentrations as well
  • no need to take both “membrane” and PVC raincoat (the former proved well)
  • sandals almost unused (cyclic shoes stunk though)

Grateful thanks to T for the photos.