Day 00 (2018-11-28)

  • daily stats: 450 km by train, 3600 km by airliner, 78 km by car
  • sleeping: Las Calderatas
  • getting up at 3:30
  • flight to the Canaries is surprisingly long (compared to central-European flights)
    • the Alps, mouth of the Rhône, the rock of Gibraltar and shop traffic
  • very smooth arrival, in less than hour we were already driving away on highway TF-1
  • traffic jam around Santa Cruz, quick replenishment in Tacoronte Lidl
  • climbing through vineyards to the camping place Las Calderatas

Day 01 (2018-11-29)

  • daily stats: 4 km walk, 970–1070
  • sleeping: Caldera
  • morning entomology research
  • short trip in fog forests around Las Calderatas
  • descent to Orotava through clouds/fog around ~700 m
  • visiting local basilica of San Augustin (in contrast with Czech religious buildings, it was warm inside)
  • needed gas bottle but we had to wait for tardes (13:30–16:30 was siesta)
  • ascent from Orotava to Caldera
  • ranger using hood of his truck for cargo – it worked because he only climbed

Morning in acampada

Day 02 (2018-11-30)

  • daily stats: 17 km walk (9:00–17:00), 1188–2248; 42 km drive
  • sleeping: camping place near San José de Los Llanos
  • easy climb from Caldera to road TF-24 (slightly lost in the Mars-like landscape)
  • Izana observatory was closer than expected, using sunscreen protection
  • watching paragliders starting spot
  • descent through trodden “conduits” in tuff
  • evening drive to San José
  • night sky with Milky Way and plethora stars

Sea inversion

Day 03 (2018-12-01)

  • daily stats: 12 km walk (11:00–18:30), 0–950; 51 km drive
  • sleeping: deserted camp Los Lajos
  • early morning to do the shopping in San José de Los Llanos
  • despite that late arrival to trip start, parking near Casas de Araza on a spot where only a small car can fit in
  • canyon trip to sea
    • dense flora, traversing above cliffs, climbing boulders, backtracking unpassable parts
    • goats, little pools (frogs and beetles), cactii, opuntias
    • marker stones proved quite useful
    • concrete or lime disposed at the bottom of the canyon
  • unreachable sea (we could see the water but not the boundary where sea touches land)
  • “beach”
    • big stones and big waves, and various garbage from the ocean
    • swimming under the cliffs (paralax indicated movement due to streams)
  • afternoon climb into a cloud
    • the dreaded inverse trip, we were really tired in the end
    • fatigue and low/reflected GPS signal confused us (marker stones saved us)
    • summer-like hot weather induced thirst for beer
  • evening drive to Los Lajos
    • shopping in Chío
  • packing for the main climb the next day

Coast near Masca

Day 04 (2018-12-02)

  • daily stats: 14 km walk (approx 11:00–16:30), 2140–3250; 12 km drive
  • sleeping: Altavista hut
  • car failure in the morning
    • drained battery, car does not start and there is no cell phone signal ~2 km around the car
    • car rental managed exchange, the plan is only 2 hours delayed
    • from Citroen C3 to Seat Ibiza
  • parking under Teide (La Catedral), totally packed with tourists
  • I’m feeling fatigue and my performance is very low, I’m happy that I could reach the Altavista hut (not sure if it’s the air or insufficient water/food (we hiked without much supplies)
  • Altavista hut
    • wi-fi, WC, electricity
    • cargo via cable car and helicopter (we could see it the next day)

Day 05 (2018-12-03)

  • daily stats: 13 km (5:00–13:00), 2130–3718; 79 km drive
  • sleeping: Las Calderatas (none but us)
  • no one sleeps well at Altavista (thin air, squeaky noises, snoring, warm, worn out air)
    • caused morning crisis in our team, split for the climb to the cable car station
  • “night” climb with headlamps to see sunrise (5:00–7:15)
  • waiting one more hour for full sunrise
  • warming on sulphuric stones (destroyed our clothes)
  • the peak became quite crowded gradually (we were among the first up there)
  • quick descent, around 13:00 back to the car (we could see it from the mountain top almost all the way down)
  • drive to Mes del Mare, swimming in the ocean (the same day when we summitted)
  • drive to El Sauzal, café, nice park
  • evening drive to Las Calderatas
  • we are accumulating garbage and too much food in the car


Day 06 (2018-12-04)

  • daily stats: 4 km (afternoon walk), 465–590 km; 160 km drive
  • sleeping: Los Lajos (again deserted)
  • homeless guy in the morning in the camp
  • mountain road to Anaga (Panoramaweg)
  • Chamorga – a village at the very (East) end of Tenerife
  • San Adreas – artificial beach (sand from Sahara), last swimming
  • Laguna – big city, historical center
  • night drive over Teide plateau

Dragonera in Laguna

Day 07 (2018-12-05)

  • daily stats: 45 km drive; 3600 km by airliner
  • sleeping: floor of Vienna airport
  • morning visit of Arona
  • last shopping (shopping center San Miguel near airport)
  • returning the car (no questions asked, as smooth as the arrival)
  • repacking our stuff into only checked-in baggage
  • slightly delay return flight, waiting for train in Vienna


  • types of roads: (steep) vineyards, highways, hairpins/sharp turns
  • kanarskeostrovy.com
  • UTC+0, you never know
  • water is warm in December

Lessons learnt

  • Sleep more before the trip if the travel begins early. Otherwise headache is likely and debilitating.
  • Canyon trip (you need to backtrack sometimes to get further)
  • Life analogy (pursuing sun vs unexpected shadow)


  • Poles at Caldera: 2 guys, 1 girl, 3 day trip just to climb Teide
  • nudists at beach
  • pair of rowers in the bay
  • crazy Russian in Los Lajos
  • two Czech (crew) girls at Altavista hut
  • couple from Ostrava
  • disoriented German family at Chamorga
  • curious German woman at Chamorga
  • Czechs at Tenerife airport (hoping for Vienna connection train)

Big thanks to MH for the photos.