St. Nicolaus swim
Diary
Day 00 (2018-11-28)
- daily stats: 450 km by train, 3600 km by airliner, 78 km by car
- sleeping: Las Calderatas
- getting up at 3:30
- flight to the Canaries is surprisingly long (compared to central-European flights)
- the Alps, mouth of the Rhône, the rock of Gibraltar and shop traffic
- very smooth arrival, in less than hour we were already driving away on highway TF-1
- traffic jam around Santa Cruz, quick replenishment in Tacoronte Lidl
- climbing through vineyards to the camping place Las Calderatas
Day 01 (2018-11-29)
- daily stats: 4 km walk, 970–1070
- sleeping: Caldera
- morning entomology research
- short trip in fog forests around Las Calderatas
- descent to Orotava through clouds/fog around ~700 m
- visiting local basilica of San Augustin (in contrast with Czech religious buildings, it was warm inside)
- needed gas bottle but we had to wait for tardes (13:30–16:30 was siesta)
- ascent from Orotava to Caldera
- ranger using hood of his truck for cargo – it worked because he only climbed
Day 02 (2018-11-30)
- daily stats: 17 km walk (9:00–17:00), 1188–2248; 42 km drive
- sleeping: camping place near San José de Los Llanos
- easy climb from Caldera to road TF-24 (slightly lost in the Mars-like landscape)
- Izana observatory was closer than expected, using sunscreen protection
- watching paragliders starting spot
- descent through trodden “conduits” in tuff
- evening drive to San José
- night sky with Milky Way and plethora stars
Day 03 (2018-12-01)
- daily stats: 12 km walk (11:00–18:30), 0–950; 51 km drive
- sleeping: deserted camp Los Lajos
- early morning to do the shopping in San José de Los Llanos
- despite that late arrival to trip start, parking near Casas de Araza on a spot where only a small car can fit in
- canyon trip to sea
- dense flora, traversing above cliffs, climbing boulders, backtracking unpassable parts
- goats, little pools (frogs and beetles), cactii, opuntias
- marker stones proved quite useful
- concrete or lime disposed at the bottom of the canyon
- unreachable sea (we could see the water but not the boundary where sea touches land)
- “beach”
- big stones and big waves, and various garbage from the ocean
- swimming under the cliffs (paralax indicated movement due to streams)
- afternoon climb into a cloud
- the dreaded inverse trip, we were really tired in the end
- fatigue and low/reflected GPS signal confused us (marker stones saved us)
- summer-like hot weather induced thirst for beer
- evening drive to Los Lajos
- shopping in Chío
- packing for the main climb the next day
Day 04 (2018-12-02)
- daily stats: 14 km walk (approx 11:00–16:30), 2140–3250; 12 km drive
- sleeping: Altavista hut
- car failure in the morning
- drained battery, car does not start and there is no cell phone signal ~2 km around the car
- car rental managed exchange, the plan is only 2 hours delayed
- from Citroen C3 to Seat Ibiza
- parking under Teide (La Catedral), totally packed with tourists
- I’m feeling fatigue and my performance is very low, I’m happy that I could reach the Altavista hut (not sure if it’s the air or insufficient water/food (we hiked without much supplies)
- Altavista hut
- wi-fi, WC, electricity
- cargo via cable car and helicopter (we could see it the next day)
Day 05 (2018-12-03)
- daily stats: 13 km (5:00–13:00), 2130–3718; 79 km drive
- sleeping: Las Calderatas (none but us)
- no one sleeps well at Altavista (thin air, squeaky noises, snoring, warm,
worn out air)
- caused morning crisis in our team, split for the climb to the cable car station
- “night” climb with headlamps to see sunrise (5:00–7:15)
- waiting one more hour for full sunrise
- warming on sulphuric stones (destroyed our clothes)
- the peak became quite crowded gradually (we were among the first up there)
- quick descent, around 13:00 back to the car (we could see it from the mountain top almost all the way down)
- drive to Mes del Mare, swimming in the ocean (the same day when we summitted)
- drive to El Sauzal, café, nice park
- evening drive to Las Calderatas
- we are accumulating garbage and too much food in the car
Day 06 (2018-12-04)
- daily stats: 4 km (afternoon walk), 465–590 km; 160 km drive
- sleeping: Los Lajos (again deserted)
- homeless guy in the morning in the camp
- mountain road to Anaga (Panoramaweg)
- Chamorga – a village at the very (East) end of Tenerife
- San Adreas – artificial beach (sand from Sahara), last swimming
- Laguna – big city, historical center
- night drive over Teide plateau
Day 07 (2018-12-05)
- daily stats: 45 km drive; 3600 km by airliner
- sleeping: floor of Vienna airport
- morning visit of Arona
- last shopping (shopping center San Miguel near airport)
- returning the car (no questions asked, as smooth as the arrival)
- repacking our stuff into only checked-in baggage
- slightly delay return flight, waiting for train in Vienna
Practicals
- types of roads: (steep) vineyards, highways, hairpins/sharp turns
- kanarskeostrovy.com
- UTC+0, you never know
- water is warm in December
Lessons learnt
- Sleep more before the trip if the travel begins early. Otherwise headache is likely and debilitating.
- Canyon trip (you need to backtrack sometimes to get further)
- Life analogy (pursuing sun vs unexpected shadow)
People
- Poles at Caldera: 2 guys, 1 girl, 3 day trip just to climb Teide
- nudists at beach
- pair of rowers in the bay
- crazy Russian in Los Lajos
- two Czech (crew) girls at Altavista hut
- couple from Ostrava
- disoriented German family at Chamorga
- curious German woman at Chamorga
- Czechs at Tenerife airport (hoping for Vienna connection train)
Big thanks to MH for the photos.