Spring cycling
Getting your rear wheel stuck in a tram rail in Sollér, that’s Mallorca.
Diary
- GPS track
- see also Mallorca hiking trip
Day 00 (2019-03-27)
- daily stats: 1500 km by airliner
- sleeping: Palma, hostel
- early wake up at 4:00 (going to bed at 1:00), sleeping on the train to Vienna
- free afternoon in Palma, not many people out (siesta)
- hour long nap to replenish energy and reduce headache due to sleep deficit
- doubts about plan: Sollér, Sa Calobra?, Lluc
Day 01 (2019-03-28)
- daily stats: 65 km, +1931 m, -1452 m
- sleeping: nearby Lluc monastery
- very slow morning because bike rental opens only at 10:00
- can’t use my payment card for the reservation
- the cause was limit on internet payments that the rental used
- phoned the bank to adjust the limit
- the rest went smoothly
- ad hoc changing to cycling clothes in a park and learning how to handle the road bicycle (especially gear down)
- well-marked cycling path got me out of the city
- meeting the first cyclists, they’re obvious pros
- lunch in Sollér, the main square is full of people, the waiters have to watch out for the tram and the tram passengers are litteraly few decimeters above my plate
- the main climb of the day/trip to the tunnel Son Torrella
- the continuous flow of cyclists is like a race, I can beat only a German retired couple
- quick pass around the lakes and dams on the top
- downhill is quite chilly
- no energy and time to descent to (and ascent from) Sa Calobra
- arrival to Lluc monastery, it is emptier than I expected (later people come out, they are accomodated there)
Day 02 (2019-03-29)
- daily stats: 113 km, +769 m, -1091 m
- sleeping: fields near Porreres
- surprised by pain of outer calves and my posterior after getting up (~8:00)
- descent to Inca (visiting patieseria, refiling water)
- journey to Manacor
- flat terrain but windy (hooked a pro upon arrival to Manacor)
- every pothole hurts (my butt)
- poorer/unreconstructed suburbs of Manacor got me to the historical center
with narrow streets
- smaller towns ~ less Germans, more minorities ?
- big road to Portocristo, big traffic
- afternoon break and relax (drying sleeping bag) by the sea in Portocristo (~1 hour)
- road to Felinatx (along sea) is surprisingly hilly
- necessary shopping due to minerals (salt) deficiency
- evening ride is easier, harder looking for a sleeping place (many lands are private)
Day 03 (2019-03-30)
- daily stats: 116 km, +954 m, -1104 m
- sleeping: Palma, hostel
- early wake up (7:15), early depart to Puig de Randa (8:15, summit 9:30)
- I was not the first (tires of cyclists at Mallorca make humming sound even at climb)
- quick downhill to Llucmajor, returing in a group of cyclist who headed to Puig de Randa, I continued to Algaida
- Algaida–Santa Maria was the quickest part (tail wind + energy)
- Santa Maria is crowded cycling crossroad
- continued to Bunyoala with same pace but then had to refill fuel (trembling members)
- repeated climb to Coll du Sollér (the training paid off, I outpaced a cyclist)
- tiring downhill/flat arrival to Palma
- sugar refill at the coast and because I still had the time before returning
the bike a cycled the coastal cycling path
- tourist hell (hotels, beaches, shops)
- unexperienced e-bikes riders in narrow turns
Day 04 (2019-03-31)
- daily stats: 5 km, +342 m, -342 m (walking), 1500 km by airliner, 8 km (city walking)
- sleeping: buses Vienna–Brno–Prague
- no particular plan for the day
- ad hoc trip to Pollença
- climb to Puig de Maria
- the path so crowded I had no privacy to pee
- weather turned bad just when I was leaving Pollença
- I looked for a bakery at the airport so I had to walk against the crowds in the corridors, it felt unconsciously a bit uneasy
Natural sights
- various puigs
Practicals
- for quick security check, get ahead of the crowds from the airport train
- low-cost baggage and travelling light
- ~25 minutes from landing to bus stand in Vienna (when everything goes smooth)
- cycling path(s) in Palma
- distinctive red color (the road)
- sometimes the track goes in opposite of traffic (left side)
- complicated turning left (you have to cross path of cars going in parallel with you)
- abundant infrastructure for road cyclists everywhere
Manmade sights
- Puig de Randa monastery
- quarry near Sineu
- Gemeindewohnungen in Vienna
People
- Slovak girl who travels alone and rents a car (flight neighbor)
- group of Moravian cyclist (~50 years old) on the plane
- Spaniards
- they wear apparently winter clothes at ~12°C
- contrasts
- a tourist girl with black lipstick and unshaved legs vs road cyclists with shaved legs
- bike mechanic girl doing maintenance of a bike (changing chain?) in gloves (cf a mechanic guy with dirty hands in Czech workshops), clean and professional
- artists accomodated in Randa
- no fat old people
- kitchen in restaurant opens at 19:30
- Max Hürzeler
- cyclist stratification
- 0–50 m: tourists, e-bikes, city bikes
- 50–150 m: hobby cyclists, families
- 150–1000 m: true road cyclists
- many sunburnt faces on the plane back
Food
- day 00
- bought iron reserve in the evening
- pizza Mallorquina on day 00
- day 01
- breakfast in hostel
- lunch in Sollér (pasta, feeling full)
- dinner and desert at Lluc (overfilling continues)
- day 02
- few candies as a breakfast
- empanada as a snack
- lunch in Manacor (pasta)
- snack in Felinatx
- dinner at camp (1/2 baguette, 130 g fuet)
- day 03
- breakfast: sweet pastry + 3 Kinder sticks
- during day: 1/2 baguette, 30 g fuet, sweet pastry, burger bread (iron reserve)
- dinner: pizza + ice cream
Equipment
- condensed water under raincoat moistened sleeping bag (no dew)
- punctured my sleeping mat on a stub/stick/straw
- Specialized Tarmac 2017
- 56 cm
- gears: crankset 50/34, cassette 11–28 (11-speed), i.e. ratio from 1.2 to 4.5
- Ultegra set
Lessons learnt
-
buffers for transfers (2.5 hours outbound was enough, 0.5 hour inbound did not suffice)
- account for low-cost airline delays,
- train delays, buffer for transfers
- Wien Hauptbahnhof is closed between 1:30 and 4:00 (and no trains in that window)
- trip joy depends on number of participants (I’s remark: the dependency is function of time (duration) too)
- it is possible to do the shopping alone in small groceries
- it is possible to do the cycling vacation with lightly sore throat
- it is possible to go to number 2 when cycling alone
- training tips
- at 5% climb, interleave 5 minutes light gear and 5 minutes off-seat pedalling
- riding with backpack bruises where vertebrae are bulging
- prepare program for a day if departure is in the evening