Outlook from Moleta de s'Esclop

Day 00 (2018-03-28)

  • daily stats: 600 km + 890 km by airliner
  • sleeping: Palma, hostel
  • tiresome flight after sleepless night (packing and preparing for absence till the last moment)
  • nice view of Alps
  • weather contrast: short-sleeve evening, sunny, blooming landscape, palms
  • cocaine and brothels

Day 01 (2018-03-29)

  • daily stats: 12.2 km
  • sleeping: premises of refugia Ses Fontanelles, 15°C in the evening (after sunset)
  • bathing in the sea in Sant Elm
  • everything (including water) is cold, it is only radiation heating by Sun
  • La Trapa climb, jungle-like (mist and green abundance below ~200 m), parched above

Day 02 (2018-03-30)

  • daily stats: 21.3 km
  • sleeping: hidden near a road (flanked by private lands), with tent
  • morning climb to Moleta de s’Esclop
  • Estellencs: restaurant, water and shop

Day 03 (2018-03-31)

  • daily stats: 19.7 km
  • sleeping: picnic area under refugia (morning temperature 7.5°C (average guess))
  • Esporles: market (delicious ham and cheese), shop, water
  • climb through oak (holm oak) forest, sudden outlook to a hacienda/mansion
  • Valldemosa: museum, water, toilet, shop
  • climb through stony valley (Cairats)
  • chalets, water tanks (not drinkable), charcoal kiln platforms

Day 04 (2018-04-01)

  • daily stats: 27.3 km
  • sleeping: a terrace above Soller (11°C in the morning, average guess)
  • descent to Deia (slightly lost over cliffs)
  • unsuccessful sea bathing
  • easy track to Soller (many German tripping families)
    • surrounded with lemon and orange orchards
  • climb through terraced valley (with water conduit), multiple springs

Day 05 (2018-04-02)

  • daily stats: 21.5 km
  • sleeping: on a charcoal kiln platform during descent to Lluc
  • morning climb on paved (cobble stones) road to the reservoir de Cúber
  • group of (wild) horses and group of (wild) runners (they seemed like a guided group, mixed men and women)
  • crowded parking place, no drinking water (despite our expectation)
  • later a spring and washing ourselves
  • pinnacle of the expedition – Puig de Massanella
    • windy and non-trivial access
  • evening incident with tent places distribution

Day 06 (2018-04-03)

  • daily stats: 3 km + 4.2 km
  • sleeping: Palma, (same) hostel
  • reached Lluc monastery (water, toillet, food)
  • taking bus to Sa Calobra beach
    • picturesque road with many hairpins full of cyclists
    • the bus driver gracefully handled encounters with other vehicles in opposite direction (or the right of more mass?)
  • the beach and lagoon is a crowded place, the farther we went into the canyon the less people were there (however, dark corners bore (fecal) traces of human presence)
  • bus/train to Palma with connection in Inca
  • evening run (down from Bellver hill as we were afraid to be trapped in after opening hours)

Day 07 (2018-04-04)

  • daily stats: 890 km + 600 km by airliner
  • sleeping: at home
  • morning walk along Palma coast and checking La Seu cathedral
    • entry fee, beggar “mums”
  • Jehovah Witnesses campaign new Plaça d’Espanya
  • rainy Milan and sunny Prague (disappointing to experience the same weather at home as in Mallorca)


  • Ryanair has hard seats (and no vomit bags), Wizzair is softer (and thus bags); leg space is borderline in both
  • path marking
    • red+white band is the main color
    • signposts (small (column), big (pointers))
    • barriers (twigs, stones)
      • took us some time until we learnt leveraging those
    • drawings: arrows, red circles
  • possible to sleep without tent
  • Bellver areal closes in the night (~21:30)
  • Kiwi.com
    • necessary to reclaim & checkin our baggage during transfer in Bergamo
    • they messed check-in for our last flight -> we had to pay the fee of 35€ for airport checking
    • kudos to them how easily we could file a complaint online and how smoothly they reimbursed us
  • water
    • generally no problems (March/April)
    • south of Soller there were enough opportunities in towns and villages
    • north of Soller there war also springs and public pipes
  • total cost (travel, food, accommodation) ~ 350 EUR

Natural sights

  • gusts of wind
    • calm periods interrupted with gusts that gradually increased in intensity (~10 seconds) and then faded out
  • no dew
  • torrent de Pareis gorge
  • cacti, succulents and palms both in gardens and in the wild

Manmade sights

  • terraced gardens (olive trees)
  • deserted houses/huts
  • lemon and orange tree orchards
  • charcoal kiln platforms (signs of earlier times economy)
  • frequent graffiti of Antifa Stuttgart
    • the drawings are quite contrasting in native(?) rural areas
  • interesting generalization of statistics
    • mean minimizes sum of deviation squares (2)
    • median minimizes sum of absolute deviations (1)
    • modus minimizes sum of zeroth power of deviations (0, where $0^0 := 0$)
    • that’s why I like travelling with STEM folks
  • underground bus and train terminal in Palma de Mallorca (Plaça d’Espanya)
  • nonsensical(?) stony barriers/walls (in the mountains)
  • water distributing cars (cisterns)
    • they are


  • Easter festival
    • Ku-klux-klan alike
    • various groups march, music, candles, children collecting wax
    • much stronger religion traditions

Brotherhood march during the Holy Week

  • exclusively road cyclists (the only MTB we saw had an electric engine)
  • German pensioners (and tourists)
    • silent but everywhere (buses, restaurants, streets)
    • Mallorca is nicknamed the 17th Bundesland
  • children playing football at squares (in every town)
  • community grilling (park infrastructure)
  • runner herds
  • individuals
    • attractive receptionist (but poor English speaker)
    • happy Mexican
    • a German guy with guidebook
    • Czech-speaking shopkeeper in Deia
    • skilled receptionist (mainland Spaniard but looked like a Mexican)
    • snoring “Indian”, he was the only one who slept in the bedroom


  • spicy beer (in Mexican restaurant)
  • beer size (normal size is 0.3 l which is confusing for Czechs)
  • bitter olives (advertised as Mallorquian style)
  • pastry
    • empanadas mallorquinas
      • tasty and filling combination of puff dough and meat (also combined with pea and carrot)
    • coca de patata
    • empanada


  • Osprey Talon II 33 l fits comfortably into 20x40x55 cm box required by most (low-cost) airlines

Lessons learnt

  • better ID than passport (both)
  • not do everything on the very last moment
  • missing summer equipment
    • cap, sun glasses, sun cream

Big thanks to my friends for the photos.