(Süd)Tirol
Preparations
- looking up various bike-packing setups on the internets
- adding bikepacking
Diary
Day 00 (2024-08-14)
- daily stats: 45 km, 3:42, +1230 m
-
sleeping: pasture below Genneralm
- adventurous (lack of bicycle slot in connection) train ride, rendez-vous in Salzburg
- steep climb early after leaving the city
- mountain countryside reached quickly
Day 01 (2024-08-15)
- daily stats: 93 km, 6:22, +980 m
-
sleeping: playground Dorfgastein
- morning surprise, curious cows watching our sleeping place, one of the sneaked through electric fence and tasted our bikes
- going through Bischofshofen, late lunch in Schwarzach im Pongau
- powerplant Schwarzach (upper) water reservoir
- entering Gastein valley through a pair of Klammtunnels
Day 02 (2024-08-16)
- daily stats: 90 km, 6:10, +1250 m
-
sleeping: campingplatz Amlach
- lazy breakfast at fountain in Bad Hodgastein
- Badgastein (meeting some other Czech cyclists, heavy bike-packers)
- picturesque town, warm springwater, wild waterfalls
- passing from Salzburg to Körnten through Tauerntunnel (car train takes also bicycles)
- descent to Mölltal and slow climb to great Winklern
- history of pack animals
- evening climb to Iselsber pass, first view of Dolomite’s Drei Zinnen
- evening culture (musing, no dances) program in Lienz
Day 03 (2024-08-17)
- daily stats: 77 km, 4:54, +780 m
-
sleeping: playground Bruneck
- comfortable climb along upper Drau to Innichen(pass)
- weather change, rain and thunderstorm on horizon
- rainy descent to Bruneck
- last 1–2 hours of the day without rain, calm evening
Day 04 (2024-08-18)
- daily stats: 84 km, 5:46, +1250 m
-
sleeping: former railway below Brennerpass (best sleeping place)
- urban coffee & breakfast in Bruneck
- descent to Brixen (Bressanone)
- monastery, historical center, Italian restaurant
- “bathing” in Isarco river
- gradual climb in the direction Brenner
- meeting the same family with a baby carriage several times
- nice evening climb (also to the top)
Day 05 (2024-08-19)
- daily stats: 112 km, 6:00, +720 m
-
sleeping: empty place at Inn river, Rosenheim
- finalizing the climb to Brennerpass (former railway is easy)
- breakfast with locals and anyone else in a small “breakfast place”
- descent to Innsbruck
- actually quite flat (with ascents) and only last kilometers dissipated the altitude
- threatening afternoon in the Inn valley – thunderstorms on both sides
- bridging train between Terfens and Jenbach
- hesitating about climb to Achenpass
- continuing by train to good ol’ Kufstein
- storm tailwind along Inn river, collecting easy kilometers
Day 06 (2024-08-20)
- daily stats: 30 km, 1:40, +200 m
-
sleeping: home
- observed German collapse in an empty grocery store before breakfast in Rosenheim
- hilly scenery of Bayerisches countryside, agricultural land
- taking train to München center and visiting the largest biergarten
- crowded and chaotic boarding of trains to home directions
Lessons learnt
- EuroVelo and Alpe-Adria Radwegs look good
- bike-packing “cans” obstacle knees when pedalling out of the saddle
- tarp does not compare to tent when it comes to mosquitoes
- it’s also short/low at the ends of sleeping bag
- bike gets scratched
- Alpine rivers are difficult to bath in (strong stream)
Unused stuff
- sandals/hardened socks (except the last rainy evening/morning)
- toilet paper (luckily civilized toilets)
- water filter
Misc
- little difference between Bayern and Tyrol
- we crossed the border several times a day without really noticing
- this may be oversimplification
- lots of Aus and Winkls
- total 530 km, average 76 km/day