Day 00 (2019-12-13)

  • daily stats: 204 km by train; 13.2 km, +260 m, -260 m, 3:15
  • sleeping: Broumov, monastery
  • sitting in the train with a respirator, not very relaxing travel
  • following the plan and visiting the nearby quarry and border (Poland) hills
  • overcast, so I only imagined the table mountains on the horizon
  • relatively warm thanks to steady air/tailwind (real temperature around 2°C)
  • evening return to the monastery, apparently, I was the only g(ho|ue)st there
  • traditional headache after irregular sleep and lengthy travel

Day 01 (2019-12-14)

  • daily stats: 24.1 km, +700 m, -700 m, 7:30
  • sleeping: Broumov, monastery
  • slower warmup in the morning, likely due to missing sugars in the breakfast
  • climb uphill and into mist/clouds, fortunately drops falling only from trees not the sky

Climbing into the cloud

  • rests of snow in the upper parts of the ridge
  • despite that the path among rocks was passable (but hiking poles helped)
  • the mist dissolved in the afternoon and allowed some views of the landscape


View through a stone gate

  • my overall pace was slower so I omitted Božanovský špičák
  • I met only one group (3) of tourists on the return path
    • hurried up in order to get out of the rocks before sunset
  • Broumov square sightseeing
    • studied an exhibition about recent demography changes
    • negative population growth (migration), low education, local services hardly compete with big chainstores (located in Poland)
    • situation likely similar to other border promontories
  • visited café in the monastery

Day 02 (2019-12-15)

  • daily stats: 13.3 km, +576 m, -536 m, ~5:30; 227 km by train
  • sleeping: home
  • short train ride to reach region of Adršpach-Teplice rocks
  • misty and windy day, quality warm up in a climb from Teplice to Lokomotiva
  • I was the only tourist in the region, the segment from Lokomotiva to Kraví hora was the most enjoyable (labyrinth of rocks and small trees)
  • slightly worse passable (glazed), the hiking poles paid off
  • later I got to the “commercial” part of the region, taller rocks and wider flatter pathways

Plain ladder in the less crowded area

Robust ladder in the crowded area

  • even met low number of tourists in this region (usually crowded in the summer season)
  • Vlčí rokle, Adršpašské skalní město
  • scheduling the route so that I don’t miss the train and I don’t have to wait for it too long
  • the return train was surprisingly crowded (Tuesday, direction to Prague)

Natural sights

  • Broumovské stěny (Broumov walls)
    • sandstone rocks on tabletop mountains
    • interestingly, the steep hillsides are only on the west, the other side are “boring” flat hills
  • Vlčí rokle
    • wooden planks to walk over peat bog
  • Adršpašské skalní město
    • it must be extra crowded in the summer (given the infrastructure) but relatively abandoned in the winter

Manmade sights

  • Broumov monastery
    • magnificent building in the landscape, visible from far away (cf. prefab high-rises)
    • contrast between reconstructed and run-down sides of the building
    • thick walls and powerful heating system (felt even overheated)
    • deserted during weekend (and coronavirus), not so much during workdays (various evening lessons)
    • historically and (IMO) recently important institution in the area
    • I recommend the accommodation there
  • basalt quarry near Rožmitál
    • it’s still active but it’s possible to officially visit the unused area


  • accommodation manager
    • unsure about handshake so we did elbow bump
  • kitchen maid
    • the serving I got was more than one person could consume (although I was the only guest), I had a dilemma whether to eat as much as I can or leave some food unused (and likely wasted)
  • more people in the town center wore masks than in the street of Prague
  • encounter with a desperate? girl in one of the monastery corridors (she was charging her phone)

Lessons learnt

  • reading Kindle on such vacation doesn’t work (reading Wikipedia instead)
  • arrange Christmas presents before vacation (!)