Diary

Day 01 (2018-07-29)

  • sleeping: bank of Danube near Kiefenholz and Geisling
  • daily stats: 82 km (incomplete stats)
  • afternoon bath in the Naab river (only one man, others relaxed)
  • Regensburg
    • length units definition on the townhall
    • message about unnamed Czech princes who came to ask for catholicism(?)
    • bridge “spammed” with locks
  • unexpected memorial of Walhalla
    • mistaken for a Nazi architecture, it actually precedes that era and was built by Ludwig I. of Bayern to celebrate famous Germans
    • crowded with picnicking people with nice outlook on the Danube
    • also dancing lessons for older people

Day 02 (2018-07-30)

  • sleeping: garden of a kind family near Aurolzmünster
  • daily stats: 30+50 km, 90 km by train (incomplete stats)
  • morning bath in the Danube
    • mud – no clear boundary between liquid and solid bed
  • heatwave – after 30 km ride exhausted

Weather that makes one want a train

  • low moral after lunch in Straubing
    • after great discussions decision to take train
    • the best price is to Passau (and the train is air-conditioned too)
  • Passau
    • sun trap – stopping at sunny square, getting tired, no power to move away, staying at the sunny square
    • crossing the Inn river, change country and landscape (more villages, little aggriculture)
  • Schärding
    • stop at fountain, replenishing sugars and liquids
  • evening ride is much better (lower temperature)
  • evening socialization with our hosts who offered sleeping at their garden and provided us with dinner (happened never before!)

Day 03 (2018-07-31)

  • sleeping: camp of the Social Youth (free of charge?)
  • daily stats: 86.7 km, 5:21:23, max 59.67 km/h
  • breakfast at playground in Aurolzmünster
    • local kids do drugs (based on social workers advertisements)
  • nice park in Ried im Kreis, slightly getting lost
  • gargantuan ice cream at lunch stop Waldzell
  • easy climb to 700 m of Frankenburg, pause in front of a church
  • heavenly groomed landscape on descent to Attersee
  • Attersee
    • camps and private houses with private “beaches”
    • the water as blue as Aryan eyes and extremely clean
    • short stop at Gustav Klimt bay

Attersee panorama

Day 04 (2018-08-01)

  • sleeping: bridge in the fields above Bad Mitterndorf
  • daily stats: 73.09 km, 4:50:58, max 62.06 km/h
  • morning bath in Attersee at the Social Youth beach
  • bypassing main road through nice cycling path in forest
  • lunch break in Bad Ischl
    • Triumph des Willens – do not eat the lunch at ugly parking place but wait and find a nicer place in the center
  • heat wave – very low performance in the afternoon (bathing and ice cream pauses)
  • Hallstätter See
    • clean (with weird fungii(?) floating around) and green (not as blue as Attersee)
    • view of the Hallstatt village with crowds of Asian tourists
  • afternoon stop in fairy-tale forest
  • passing Bad Aussee

Day 05 (2018-08-02)

  • sleeping: corn crops near Teufenbach
  • daily stats: 105.51 km, 6:38:20, max 67.78 km/h
  • day of primary climb
  • because of rainy forecast we set alarm clock early (~6:15) and successfully departed
  • detour around Grimming (>2000 m, clouded top)

Morning Grimming

  • training glider pilot in the valley of the Enns
  • Sölkpass (1790 m)
    • the first stage is easy with nice looks at the houses spread along the Sölktal
    • lunch in Sakt Nikolai
    • second stage much harder, hairpins, cows that blocked road
    • climbing competition: I, Mi, T, Ma
    • crossing the pass brought change of weather – descent in rain
  • tea break in Murrau(?)

Sölktal road

Day 06 (2018-08-03)

  • sleeping: meadow above Schinderbach
  • daily stats: 94.6 km, 5:46:26, max 57.46 km/h
  • descent “along” the Mur river
    • actually quite many little climbs
  • crossing the track of the Transcontinental Race
    • groups of road cyclist with light camp baggage
  • lunch break in Judenburg, collecting energy for the secondary climb
  • Hirschegger Sattel (1543 m)
    • relatively easy climb except for final ~2 kilometers with gravel road
    • climbing competition: T, Mi, I, Ma
    • expecing minor climb on descent but it did not happen because of wrong routing of mapy.cz
  • in Edelschrott purchasing train ticket to Czechia for the next day
  • steep descent with brake cooling

Day 07 (2018-08-04)

  • daily stats: 44.6 km, 2:43:58, max 58.55 km/h
  • “descent” to Graz takes longer than expected and contains quite some climbs
  • Graz
    • lunch in nice historical quarter (Schmidt)
    • climb to the castle with nice outlook
  • boarding the train to Prague (~6 hours journey)
    • despite EC train it went slowly in Semmering
    • first time “visiting” Wien Hauptbahnhof

People

  • metal detector guy near Schärding
  • kind couple in Aurolzmünster who hosted us
  • shopping girl in Waldzell we did not know who she was smiling at
  • Czech staff at Attersee
  • Polish family at Sölkpass
  • transcontinental racers
  • Artemis with gun at Hirschegger Sattel
  • convertible guy in Edelschrott who had to ask us for directions
  • seasoned waitress in Graz
  • uncounted seniors on e-bikes who outpaced us

Misc

  • beware of heat wave
  • consider road bicycles
  • broader and deeper socialization
  • put on shoe covers when it starts raining and at the start of descent
  • hipster cycling raincoat (covers handlebar)
  • Austria even more centralized than Czechia

Thanks to T for not being lazy and taking photos which he shared.