Two passes summer
Diary
Day 01 (2018-07-29)
- sleeping: bank of Danube near Kiefenholz and Geisling
- daily stats: 82 km (incomplete stats)
- afternoon bath in the Naab river (only one man, others relaxed)
- Regensburg
- length units definition on the townhall
- message about unnamed Czech princes who came to ask for catholicism(?)
- bridge “spammed” with locks
- unexpected memorial of Walhalla
- mistaken for a Nazi architecture, it actually precedes that era and was built by Ludwig I. of Bayern to celebrate famous Germans
- crowded with picnicking people with nice outlook on the Danube
- also dancing lessons for older people
Day 02 (2018-07-30)
- sleeping: garden of a kind family near Aurolzmünster
- daily stats: 30+50 km, 90 km by train (incomplete stats)
- morning bath in the Danube
- mud – no clear boundary between liquid and solid bed
- heatwave – after 30 km ride exhausted
- low moral after lunch in Straubing
- after great discussions decision to take train
- the best price is to Passau (and the train is air-conditioned too)
- Passau
- sun trap – stopping at sunny square, getting tired, no power to move away, staying at the sunny square
- crossing the Inn river, change country and landscape (more villages, little aggriculture)
- Schärding
- stop at fountain, replenishing sugars and liquids
- evening ride is much better (lower temperature)
- evening socialization with our hosts who offered sleeping at their garden and provided us with dinner (happened never before!)
Day 03 (2018-07-31)
- sleeping: camp of the Social Youth (free of charge?)
- daily stats: 86.7 km, 5:21:23, max 59.67 km/h
- breakfast at playground in Aurolzmünster
- local kids do drugs (based on social workers advertisements)
- nice park in Ried im Kreis, slightly getting lost
- gargantuan ice cream at lunch stop Waldzell
- easy climb to 700 m of Frankenburg, pause in front of a church
- heavenly groomed landscape on descent to Attersee
- Attersee
- camps and private houses with private “beaches”
- the water as blue as Aryan eyes and extremely clean
- short stop at Gustav Klimt bay
Day 04 (2018-08-01)
- sleeping: bridge in the fields above Bad Mitterndorf
- daily stats: 73.09 km, 4:50:58, max 62.06 km/h
- morning bath in Attersee at the Social Youth beach
- bypassing main road through nice cycling path in forest
- lunch break in Bad Ischl
- Triumph des Willens – do not eat the lunch at ugly parking place but wait and find a nicer place in the center
- heat wave – very low performance in the afternoon (bathing and ice cream pauses)
- Hallstätter See
- clean (with weird fungii(?) floating around) and green (not as blue as Attersee)
- view of the Hallstatt village with crowds of Asian tourists
- afternoon stop in fairy-tale forest
- passing Bad Aussee
Day 05 (2018-08-02)
- sleeping: corn crops near Teufenbach
- daily stats: 105.51 km, 6:38:20, max 67.78 km/h
- day of primary climb
- because of rainy forecast we set alarm clock early (~6:15) and successfully departed
- detour around Grimming (>2000 m, clouded top)
- training glider pilot in the valley of the Enns
- Sölkpass (1790 m)
- the first stage is easy with nice looks at the houses spread along the Sölktal
- lunch in Sakt Nikolai
- second stage much harder, hairpins, cows that blocked road
- climbing competition: I, Mi, T, Ma
- crossing the pass brought change of weather – descent in rain
- tea break in Murrau(?)
Day 06 (2018-08-03)
- sleeping: meadow above Schinderbach
- daily stats: 94.6 km, 5:46:26, max 57.46 km/h
- descent “along” the Mur river
- actually quite many little climbs
- crossing the track of the Transcontinental Race
- groups of road cyclist with light camp baggage
- lunch break in Judenburg, collecting energy for the secondary climb
- Hirschegger Sattel (1543 m)
- relatively easy climb except for final ~2 kilometers with gravel road
- climbing competition: T, Mi, I, Ma
- expecing minor climb on descent but it did not happen because of wrong routing of mapy.cz
- in Edelschrott purchasing train ticket to Czechia for the next day
- steep descent with brake cooling
Day 07 (2018-08-04)
- daily stats: 44.6 km, 2:43:58, max 58.55 km/h
- “descent” to Graz takes longer than expected and contains quite some climbs
- Graz
- lunch in nice historical quarter (Schmidt)
- climb to the castle with nice outlook
- boarding the train to Prague (~6 hours journey)
- despite EC train it went slowly in Semmering
- first time “visiting” Wien Hauptbahnhof
People
- metal detector guy near Schärding
- kind couple in Aurolzmünster who hosted us
- shopping girl in Waldzell we did not know who she was smiling at
- Czech staff at Attersee
- Polish family at Sölkpass
- transcontinental racers
- Artemis with gun at Hirschegger Sattel
- convertible guy in Edelschrott who had to ask us for directions
- seasoned waitress in Graz
- uncounted seniors on e-bikes who outpaced us
Misc
- beware of heat wave
- consider road bicycles
- broader and deeper socialization
- put on shoe covers when it starts raining and at the start of descent
- hipster cycling raincoat (covers handlebar)
Austria even more centralized than Czechia
Thanks to T for not being lazy and taking photos which he shared.